September 12, 2006

A Week in Gascony: Monday- PIG

Monday- Pig Pink
Tuesday- Duck Yellow
Wednesday- Red Meat Red
Thursday- Wine Rosé
Friday- Armagnac Gold
Saturday- Market Rainbow Parasols
Days of the week...
Remember those cotton panties that had the name of the week embroidered on them?
I must have been too old to wear them or too young to remember; I’m not sure I even owned any but the image sprang to mind this week as Eric, Claire, Gary and David (all alumni’s of the French Culinary Institute) joined Vetou, Dupont and me for a “Week in Gascony—French Kitchen Adventures.”

During the week we shared a laundry basket of gastronomic colors. If as a group we wore our colors with pride, there is also no shame in sharing what we ate and what we cooked. This is Gascony—the great Southwest France. Here, business, life and love revolve around the table. And especially at the floating table of Camont. Join us for a week of good food and friendly neighbors in my Long Village- a floating table in France.

Monday - PIG
Charcuterie
Chapolard Family Baradieu 47170 Mezin

This is what we bought, cooked and ate:
Boudin noir
Saucisson
Saucisse seche
Grattons
Paté a la tete
Pied de porc
Crépinette

A van load of pig parts. An appetite whetted by the salty parfum of sausage and hanging hams. And a hunger to follow the field to table trail. Sunflower fields, their heavy-seeded heads hanging in anticipation of the harvesters, line the narrow French roads. The plate-sized heads are fat with seeds pressed for oil or used for animal feed. Here at Baradieu, near Mezin in the Lot-et-Garonne, one family has adapted a new version of the family farm into a better working model. Come join us for a tour of what the 4th Little Pig would have build against the big bad economic Wolf at the Door.

Along with corn, barley, wheat, and oats that they grow, the sunflowers feed an artisan level pork production at the Chapolard Family farm. Not just another French Impressionist landscape, the bright sunny faces have now become two-faced. First the sunflower seed pulp milled with the other grains to feed growing piglets then, in an economic tour de force, the oil pressed from the tournesol fields fuels Jacques’ Peugeot 505.

On this family farm, every few weeks, 5-6 sows throw a litter of 12-15 piglets that Bruno will care for and feed, then together with his brothers- Jacques, Dominique and Marc will bring to slaughter. Each Monday morning the brothers are joined by their wives and a few helpers to first butcher and then transform the succulent meat into delicious lardons, ventrêche, boudin, saucissons, saucisses, jambons, paupiettes, pates, terrines…

Tuesdays and Saturdays at Casteljaloux, Wednesdays at Lavardac and Saturday at Nerac a line snakes down the crowded market alleys as loyal customers line up to buy the high-quality selections of ‘L’Art du Cochon’.

“We are selling more than pork”, Dominique confides to us as we stand in the narrow white tiled laboratoire in our plastic booties, “we are selling confidence.”

“We notice our customers are younger, with young families, and that they rely on us for help: how long to cook a pork shoulder roast; how much Saucisse de Toulouse to buy; how best to store the smoked bacon; when to eat rillettes…”

“We sell a relationship, not just meat.”
I say they are selling smiles.


Tomorrow-
Tuesday
DUCK

September 02, 2006

T is Terre, Terroir, je suis une Terroirista.

earth
dirt
soil
geology
rain
wind
sun
heat
cold
work
history
love

The sum of these ingredients is a recipe for terroir.

This week I begin a week of being a terroirista as I welcome a group of French Culinary Institute Alumni to my French Kitchen in Gascony. Gascon this and Gascon that, the Cooking of Southwest France, local, neighbors, corner farm, blah, blah, blah. They'll be sick of hearing me spout off about how good, how delicious, how fresh, how does this even work still...

Pigs, Ducks, Cows, Fowl, Wine, Fruit, Armagnac... It's a compressed week of 20 years of living here in France's hidden garden slapped on the my floating table every night. They'll get dirty, they'll get tired, they'll get drunk- then cook. Jambon, pied de porc, magret, demoiselles, tete de veau, boeuf a la mode, pintade a l'armagnac, poule au pot, pruneaux au vin, peche de vigne, chasselas...

Stay tuned and be prepared to be hungry. This French Mother Earth has her apron on!


August 05, 2006

S is Summer!


Summer takes a breather and the killer heat finally retreats into a damn good imitation of fall this misty morning—overcast skies and sweatshirt cool. Across the canal, abundant blackberries overgrowing the bank are whispering, ‘Harvest me. Harvest me.’ A mother duck stops her teenage brood to pluck mures dangling over the milky green water. Mmm... Duck breasts with blackberry vinegar?

It’s but the first week of August. Summer vacationers have jammed the French roads and the littoral is littered with sand-crusted European bodies. David L tells us “Paris is closing” but Southwest France is just opening her fat food basket and while neglected chores stretch across the barge, from emails to dirty bilges, I have an idea. On this quiet Saturday morning in August, I settle for a little ‘garden archaeology’- a much-missed tour of the overgrown potager, abandoned for a month of travel on the Julia Hoyt, before my morning chores rein me in. I pout at the keyboard, then bolt and shout to no one at all, “I’ll be back!”

Thirty minutes later. Even the abandoned garden yields a full basket of food: several kilos of tomatoes, a few hot peppers, three over-large courgettes, a handful of cherry tomatoes, one bitter lettuce, some stray leeks and all the herbs I need to make a summer soup- savory, mint, thyme, chives, lemon verbena.

In my absence, a volunteer morning glory knitted the raspberry canes together next to the guinguette/garden shed. They yield a flower pot full to the brim of red thimbles punctuated by a handful of cultivated blackberries. Once again the squirrels and friends have scored the lion share of the noisettes from the hedgerow but I think there is enough to stir into the found berry jam. Enough to make two pots; one to greedily eat now and one to save until the winter blues.

The green gage plums or prunes reine-claude are still crunchy sour, so those that fell at my feet (at my insistence) will get pickled- a sort of green plum chutney for a pork roast fest. The slightly stunted eggplants and the rest of the tomatoes will roast until thick and sweet; I’ll jar them all and save them for the winter cooking classes when I need to recall summer inspiration. I am at my best writing menus when I have a handy palate of textures and colors to pluck from. Camont becomes a quirky edible paint box for my French Kitchen Arts.

Summer Lunch:

French Potager Gazpacho- a Summer Soup
Pork Shoulder Roast served with Green Plum Chutney
Confited Tomato and Eggplant Tartines
August Harvest Tarte
with raspberry, blackberry and hazelnut jam and pears.


and for breakfast tomorrow...

JC's Blackberry Scones: TIM CLINCH